La Boccia is ideally placed for anyone who wants to tour around the region. Despite its peaceful and private setting, it is only minutes away from the main E45 motorway, which runs north to South. From La Boccia you can reach Florence in less than two hours and Siena just as quickly. Siena is the home of the world famous “Palio”, which happens in July and August. Even closer is Arezzo, the town where written music was first invented.
But let’s concentrate on the wonders of Umbria.
Perugia, the region's capital, is an hour’s drive away and is the lively home of the Università degli Stranieri (University for Foreigners), a place where you'll hear music late into the night and almost any language you can name on the streets. Dominating the medieval town is the Rocca Paolina, Italy's largest fortress. Built at the orders of Pope Paul III, it was intended to subjugate the independent Perugians to papal power. When Italy was unified in 1860 and the Papal States ceased to exist, the first thing the Perugians did was to retake the citadel.
Perugia's main square is Piazza IV Novembre; in its centre is the Fontana Maggiore, a large fountain covered with highly expressive bas-relief sculptures. The local art museum, La Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, is filled with wonderful works. Walk to the end of Corso Garibaldi to see the simple little church of Sant'Angelo; farther on is the monastery of Sant'Agnese. It is quiet, semi-deserted places such as this that best embody the true spiritual nature of Umbria.
Picture postcard hill towns are all over the region. Visit Spello, home of the painter Pinturicchio. Only pedestrians are allowed on the steep, narrow streets of this town, whose ancient walls still stand, complete with portals and towers dating back to Caesar Augustus (63BC-14AD). The 13th-century church of Santa Maria Maggiore offers some of Pinturicchio's most wonderful frescoes, located in the Capella Baglioni, which also boasts a majolica tile floor made in Umbrian Deruta, a town famous for its pottery. Trevi is another excellent example of a homogenous medieval town. Todi lies within an admirably preserved ring of city walls; its sloping streets are crowned by the church of San Fortunato, with a 15th-century facade and an echoing stark interior. 14th-century Piazza del Popolo is the town's main square. Narni's 11th-century cathedral of San Giovenale has many interesting annexes, towers and chapels.
Panicale's authentic medieval character is visible in its Piazza Umberto I and Rocca del Podestà; the view of the valley can is spectacular. Gualdo Tadino, dominated by a 13th-century castle called Rocca Flea, is a great place to tour a ceramic factory. Elegant little Città della Pieve, birthplace of the artist Perugino, has a wonderful cathedral and a 12th-century city tower. A few valleys away, the church of Santa Maria Assunta overlooks the steep streets of Nocera Umbra. In the town’s picture gallery you can see Cimabue's poignant "Crucifixion."
Norcia, although best known for its prosciutto, salami and sausage, also boasts the Tempietto, an incredibly ornate 14th-century tower covered with bas-relief sculptures. High atop yet another hill, Umbertide has one of only three duelling grounds remaining in Europe. Stop in at the church of Santa Croce to see Luca Signorelli's wonderful "Deposition." Tiny, unspoiled Bevagna has preserved several remains from its days as an ancient Roman staging post. Its Piazza Silvestri is an exemplary Romanesque town square; lining it are the glorious Teatro Torti, the dark, mysterious church of San Silvestro, and the 12th-century church of San Michele. More hilltop magic is to be found in Città di Castello, home of a noteworthy municipal art gallery, the personal gallery of modern sculptor Alberto Burri, a local aristocrat's model train museum and an exquisite theatre. Of all the Umbrian hill towns, it is said the best views are afforded from Montefalco, nicknamed “The balcony of Umbria”
My personal favourite is Gubbio, a medieval jewel whose buildings seem to march up the impossibly steep slopes of its heavily wooded hill. At its feet is a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre, still used for summer performances. In town is the 13th-century church of San Francesco, offering delightful frescoes and a serene little cloister. But the most visible landmark of Gubbio is the turreted tower of Palazzo dei Consoli, commissioned by the citizens in 1332. It is still a gleaming symbol of medieval civic independence.
Umbria is the in centre of Italy, and at its centre is Lago Trasimeno, where Hannibal became the first non-European to defeat the mighty Roman Empire, in 217 BC. . If you have a spare day, take an excursion boat to one of the islands; on the largest, Isola Polvese, shady olive groves are rimmed by great sandy beaches. Medieval towns at the edge of the lake, include Castiglione del Lago, whose Palazzo Comunale is frescoed with heroic and mythological scenes. On the last Sunday of July, the people of Passignano sul Lago host a fishermen's regatta. Pilgrims flock to Rigone to visit the church of La Madonna dei Miracoli and the 13th century church of San Vico.
Of course, there are three Umbrian towns almost everyone has heard of. Spoleto, home of the Festival of Two Worlds, has been a cultural centre for centuries. Arriving on the Via Flaminia, you can't miss the Rocca Albornoz, a very gloomy building. But once in town, you are back amongst the warmth and harmony. Seen from outside, the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is unforgettable, with its terra cotta-paved piazza, symmetrical bell tower and golden Byzantine mosaic. Inside are Fra Filippo Lippi's frescoes, possibly Michelangelo's inspiration for the Sistine Chapel. The magnificent 10th-century church of Sant'Eufemia was the court church of the Dukes of Spoleto, hence its soaring vault.